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No Blues And No Biscuits, But That's A Good Thing

Go To The Hotel's Web 
  Site Where: 501 2nd Street [map], Indianola, MS, United States, 38751
August 3, 2011 at 9:50 AM | by | Comments (0)

All this week, Julia Buckley will be taking us down the Blues trail in the Mississippi Delta and giving us the lowdown on the hotel scene. So kick off your blue suede shoes and get comfy.

Indianola is a place that many people seem to skip when they’re in the Delta. We made this mistake our first time, too, with a drive-through visit to the (incredible) BB King Museum. This time, we decided to stay overnight – and were recommended the Blue Biscuit Bungalows.

The Blue Biscuit itself is a blues bar open at weekends opposite the BB King Museum in downtown Indianola. As a bar, it’s pretty and charming; but as a place to stay, it’s one of the best in the Delta.

You have two options: one, a shotgun cottage that, unlike the Tallahatchie Flats, has been done up: painted yellow outside and converted into a modern house inside with awesome kitsch everywhere (yes, Elvis is in the building). That’s out on the road by the bar.

The other option is the one we stayed in: the summer house. It’s tucked away in the owners’ garden, by the pool and next to their main house. So your bed is about 10ft from the swimming pool. While we’re on the subject: swimming pool. Mississippi Delta. Two things we never thought we’d see together. Wow.

The summer house didn’t scream “blues” or “Delta” as other places we stayed did. It was country cottage-style with slate floors, a big bed and sofa and an open-plan, full kitchen. And when we say “full” we don’t just mean in terms of appliances – there was coffee, milk, and even a massive bottle of wine that we were encouraged to help ourselves to. The over-riding feeling was of staying in someone’s house. A nice person’s house, too, seeing as owners Trish and Harlon were as friendly as their accents suggested.

But our favorite part was the bathroom. It was small, and the water was verging on too soft, but the semi-outside shower made up for it – a pebbledash floor, corrugated iron walls and a plastic ceiling with creeper that was clambering all over the house crawling its way across the roof of the shower. Awesome. And, unlike the last outdoor shower we used, no chance of being seen.

The only problem: because it’s glass-walled, and therefore prone to over-heating, they’ve covered most of the walls with corrugated iron and wood, which means it’s pretty dark. But the kitchen was well lit and we spent our time in the day sitting outside where there are not only tables, but there’s a CD player as well…

In short, it was heavenly, and completely unique. Next time, we’ll come for a week.

Both bungalows cost $85 a night or $75 if you stay two or more nights. Oh, and there’s fast, working WiFi. Which can’t be taken for granted in the Delta.

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