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When You're Tired of Living in Hotels, You're Tired of Life (Except in London)

May 12, 2011 at 7:06 PM | by | Comments (2)

And now we leave you with a special guest post from Paul Carr, the man who spent three years living in London hotels, an envious escapade which not only serves as the premise for his book, The Upgrade, but which also gives him license to lay into London hotels for their overpriced rates and poor service. And away we go.

When Samuel Johnson suggested that a man who is tired of London is tired of life, he clearly wasn't paying $500 a night to stay at a mid-refurb Radisson in a drafty twin room overlooking some dumpsters. In fact, if you want to become tired of life very quickly, a night in a London hotel is a great place to start.

I should start by emphasizing how much I love hotels. I love hotels so much, that three years ago I gave up my apartment in London, sold nearly all of my possessions (all that wouldn't fit in a single carry-on bag) and began living as a permanent hotel-dweller.

Since then, by virtue of having no fixed abode (and very little shame), I've enjoyed a life of ridiculous excess and adventure, met thousands of incredible people and had more fun than is perhaps sensible for a grown man. Certainly more than is legal: my adventures have landed me in jail cells on at least three occasions (that I can remember) and ultimately lead to me finally quitting drinking and writing a book about my misadventures: The Upgrade, which just so happens to be published this week in the UK and Europe.

And yet, London is the one city on earth which makes me hate the idea staying in hotels, let alone living in them. For a start, the economics are ridiculous. A cursory glance on Hotels.com shows me that the cheapest,the cheapest, central London, four star or above, hotel room available tonight is $531. By contrast, for just $30 more in New York, I could book a loft at Morgans. Hell, for $100 less I could comfortably book any of the current hotel-only deals on Jetsetter and still have enough left over for dinner.

Even this week--after the big wedding and plenty early for the Olympics--my seven day stay in the capital for my book launch will cost me more than spending the entire month of March in San Francisco. Over the past twelve months, my average nightly room rate has hovered around $120, which is roughly £70. In London, that's barely enough for a bright orange, wipe-clean room at the Easy Hotel, Victoria or a "five star bed at one star price" room at Tune.

(There's really only one way to get a good room in London for less than 70 quid, and by telling you about it I'm almost certainly killing the golden goose. The Hoxton Hotel in Shoreditch has rooms starting at around £80 ($130), but for just £19 ($30) they'll rent you one of those same rooms between the hours of 10am and 4pm for use as a "day office." If you're happy being nocturnal, there's nothing in theory stopping you from sleeping there all day and then partying all night. Squarrrk. Sorry goose.)

But, ok, London is an expensive city and I wouldn't object too loudly if my $531 room came with $531 service. But it doesn't. In fact, by any metric, London hotel service constantly disappoints. In the US it's remarkable to receive open hostility at check in (except at the Riviera in Las Vegas); to be given a downgrade from a suite to a twin-bedded attic room, or to be told that due to overbooking, you have to make your own way right across town to a sister property.

All three of those things happened to me in the same week during my last trip to London. As for housekeeping: at one "five star" property which should probably remain nameless but won't; it was The Mayfair (Radisson) - I opened a closet door only to find someone had scrawled the words "THIS HOTEL IS A SHIT-HOLE" on the back inside in pencil. I would have called down to report the graffiti but the room phone didn't have a dial tone.

London hotels are going through something of a--no pun intended--renaissance right now, with new flagship properties opening at St Pancras (Marriott's St Pancras Renaissance) and Leicester Square (The W at the site of the former Swiss Centre) just in time for the Royal Wedding and there's a whole cluster of others opening to coincide with the Olympics.

In most other major cities, this would be seen as an opportunity: to show off the best of London hospitality to the world, buoyed by the increased occupancy rates brought by millions of additional visitors. Judging by initial reports, the major new-builds seem to understand this -- but based on past performance, I fear most other places will simply see the influx of tourists as a chance to hike rates even further without adjusting room or staff quality one jot.

Still, the realities of London hotel economics and service do have one upside for a budget-conscious hotel-dweller like me. They justify throwing fiscal caution to the wind and splashing out on luxury. In other cities, staying in a $650-a-night room (like the ones offered, say, by The Lanesborough tonight) would require a bit of careful thought, but in London it's basically a no-brainer; a Maslowian question of survival. Why would I pay $531 for a shit-hole, when $120 more gets me my own butler, complimentary WiFi on tap and - a weirdly anachronistic perk - unlimited free porn on the television? Free porn! That's living the dream.

Then, once I've become tired of London again--by about the start of next week--I can just have my butler pack my life back into a carry on bag, hail a cab for Heathrow and jump on a plane to somewhere friendlier and less expensive than London. I've heard good things about Abbottabad.

Paul Carr is a writer who lives permanently in hotels. His book, The Upgrade: A Cautionary Tale of a Life Without Reservations is available from Amazon and all good UK bookstores. He blogs daily at www.paulcarr.com/theupgrade

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The Mayfair

My September 2009 at the Mayfair was far more pleasant than this guy alludes to.  The room was spotless, the wi-fi was free and fast, and the service at the front and concierge desks was excellent, as is the location. I stayed at the Berkeley a year later and found the service to be just a bit better than the Mayfair's.  Plus my company's rates at both hotels are a lot lower than $531!

Blame Paris?

I was a defo surprised to see that about The May Fair as it always seems like a fun but still posh kind of place. Then again, they did host Paris Hilton for a while so maybe it's showing some celeb wear and tear.

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