HotelChatter

Run by Sheeri, a soft, helpful Israeli woman and her Cambodian husband, it is is a backpackers’ haven. Set on the side of a hill, filled with horses nibbling brush, the lodge has a wonderland feel to it. Some of the animals like to wander through the open-air dining room, and their presence is always welcome.

Friendly travelers convene in the restaurant area, a circular enclosure made of knotty pine that feels like a childhood tree house. There’s a bench swing, pool table, hammocks, and a windy staircase that leads to an attic alcove perfect for watching the sunrise. Because of its appealing ambiance, there are always loungers there, and its almost impossible not to make new friends and potentially future travel companions. Both the Khmer and Western dishes are well-priced, hardy, and delicious.

Individual, hardwood lodges with connected, hot water bathrooms are spread throughout the grounds. The share bathroom rooms are a good deal—half the price but the bathroom that’s shared is still nice and has hot water. There’s a sauna on the grounds but it was out of order when we visited.

Sheeri can arrange waterfall transport or provide you with a handy map for do-it-yourselfers. She also organizes elephant treks and multi-day camping trips with Phnong villagers. All of her trips are arranged directly with the local people and she says the money goes straight to them.