Hehe. Remember when legendary NYT restaurant reviewer Frank Bruni hit up The Greenwich Hotel's now-defunct Ago restaurant and deemed it spectacularly bad, with a review that actually sort of made people wince with its harshness and zero-star rating (that hurts, you guys)? Well, Ago has since peaced out of the restaurant space and has been replaced by Locanda Verde, a spilling-onto-the-sidewalk casual-but-upscale restaurant headed up by chef Andrew Carmellini.
The Times gave the new restaurant the official Bruni treatment yesterday.
Bruni declares LV "so vastly superior to Ago that it’s sacrilegious even to mention the two in the same sentence," and pens a "groveling penance, a bent-knee litany of all that’s improved" — from the wine list to the decor to the food, with an almost-flawless selection of cicchetti and antipasti.
The food, he says, is relatively unambitious (i.e. not too fancy), but mostly appealing and at a fairly-affordable price point. Bruni suggests the sheep’s milk ricotta, the crostini, grandmother’s raviol, maltagliati with pesto and rice custard gelato. He also suggests making rezzies about two weeks in advance for prime-time seating, and — unlike Ago — it may be worth it.
Bruni gave Locanda Verde two stars.
[Photo: Daniel Barry for the New York Times]
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