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Bite Into La Bistecca at the Millennium Biltmore

Where: 506 S. Grand Ave. [map], Los Angeles, CA, United States, 90071

For a long time, the cavernous Spanish-colonial gem of a former lobby at downtown Los Angeles’s Millennium Biltmore Hotel was going to waste as a way station for travelers checking in and out without giving the breathtaking hall the attention it deserved. Now, however, the hotel is putting the three-story space front and center as the location of its new Italian steakhouse, La Bistecca.

The lobby, which has touches of a bygone era like hand-carved wooden ceiling beams, Travertine walls, and an enormous chandelier that even the Phantom of the Opera would enjoy, has also added a huge rose marble fountain in the middle of the new 70-person seating area.

Carnivores can get six different cuts of steak, including a bone-in rib eye, and slow-roasted prime rib. The meats come, Sicilian-style, with a variety of simple accompaniments and sauces like the Barolo wine sauce, a mascarpone-horseradish cream, and a marinated porcini béarnaise.

Vegans might have a hard time finding something to eat here since even the salads have cream-based dressings, and all the antipasti and pasta dishes include some kind of meat, but you know what? You can hit a Whole Foods anytime, this is for a special night out at an old-school steakhouse.