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Meet Your (Charcuterie) Maker: Ryan Hardy of Montagna at The Little Nell

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  Site Where: 675 E. Durant Avenue [map], Aspen, CO, United States, 81611
June 22, 2009 at 4:40 PM | by globetrotting gourmet | 0 Comments

2009 James Beard Best Chef Southwest Award finalist Executive Chef Ryan Hardy oversees Montagna inside the pride and joy of Aspen’s WASP-y jet set, The Little Nell. Two years ago, Hardy and his business partner Michael Waters purchased a 15-acre sustainable farm in Crawford, a small town in Western Colorado about half way between Aspen and Telluride. They named the 1870 homestead Rendezvous Organic Farm and now Hardy supplies Montagna's vegetables, eggs, heritage pigs, and cage-free chickens. He also makes his own cheese.

The menu at Montagna places emphasis on the seasonality of ingredients, but it’s Hardy’s homemade charcuterie that sends carnivores into a cured meat frenzy.

Hardy teases palates with a simple ham toast served with butter. He further seduces with thin slices of dried Hungarian elk made with smoked paprika and pork fat, a hard sausage commonly produced in Hungary and the Czech Republic.

Next up: Lomo, a dry cured pork loin from Rendezvous Farm made with white wine and garlic. Hardy’s favorite is finocchiona, a 100% pork product made with fennel pollen, fennel seed and Chianti, aged 3-5 months. Fennel pollen is a pricey ingredient – in Italy about 75 grams (or a little more than 2.5 ounces will set you back $75-100 USD.

The Pièce de résistance, though, is Hardy’s Chicken Liver Paté. Before you make a face — and you know what face — this is not your mama’s circa-1983 version. This rendition might as well be renamed “Chicken Butter.” It’s texture is melt-in-your-mouth smooth; the taste, decadent and delicious. Even Jacques Pépin, the godfather of haute French cuisine, wanted the recipe because he could not believe it did not contain foie gras.

Hardy is currently in cahoots with the FDA to create safety rules and standardized regulations for the production of artisanal charcuterie. In the meanwhile, his charcuterie is kept under lock and key in a curing room at Montagna, although the affable chef has been known to give curious foodies a quick look-see.

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