HotelChatter

Instead of the steamy, perfect popovers we were expecting (we assumed the bread basket at BLT Market would be the same as at BLT Prime, but no), the first thing out of the kitchen was a paper bag full of small, warm garlic-pesto baguettes. Those were followed up quickly by what seemed to be three bites of a jazzed-up pig in a blanket (pictured) — both carby delights were delicious, a fancy spin on some not-fancy food.

We ordered off the fixed-price lunch menu, which gave us a choice of three starters, a handful of lunch entrees (including a hanger steak and a black cod) and three sides served family-style.

We opted for the marinated beets with grilled pancetta and grapefruit gremolata to start (menu price: $14), which turned out to be a little oily for our tastes, but the flavors worked beautifully together and the beets weren't too soft.

For our main dish, we went for the the rosemary-parmesan chicken with chablis-mushroom sauce (menu price: $26), and the chicken was tender and juicy and perfect. But be warned: the dish is served with half a head of garlic. We didn't touch it — and we recommend you don't touch it either if you plan to be around people for the next 24 hours.

We had a chance to try all three sides: a roasted root vegetable mix, sautéed spinach with nutmeg and brown garlic, and a potato mousseline and spring onion puree. All were good, but the potato mousseline — which comes out looking like a big vat of green mashed potatoes — was outstanding (well, 'til it got cold).

Bottom line: an excellent (albeit heavy), indulgent lunch experience if you're willing to drop the cash and you're looking for a place with top-notch food without the snooty vibe.

[Photo: Anthonut]