HotelChatter

Getting there is very simple, with several bus lines running regular service between Mendoza, Argentina’s other major cities, and Santiago, Chile. Or you can fly in from BsAs or Santiago.

The city was founded in 1561 by the Spanish, though before that, it was inhabited by mountain peoples known as the Huarpes, who dug ingenious irrigation systems due to the fact that there is so little rainfall—less than five days a year!—and yet the region is so fertile. Too bad the Spanish unceremoniously killed them off.

Mendoza is home to several peculiar little Argentine history museums, but the real draw is the Parque General San Martin, which is almost as big as the city itself and is one of the largest metropolitan parks in the world. It offers a variety of outdoor activities, museums, a modest zoo, and hiking paths to high points with great views of the wine region.

The only problem with Mendoza is that there are not a lot of decent hotel options in the city itself. Not all of us can afford to stay at the swank Park Hyatt plonked down right in the middle of town, nor in any of the lovely albergos, or country inns, that sprinkle the nearby countryside outside easy reach of public transportation (you don’t want to have to drive in traffic light-free Mendoza, or navigate the perilous Andean highways, trust me.)

On the other end of the spectrum are the countless backpacker hostels that literally have not been cleaned since the Huarpes were still around. In between lies a plethora of drab little hotels that you--nor I, since this is my job, after all--could never recommend to other people.

That leaves what I consider to be the best (and only) really great option in Mendoza, the adorable little Hotel Villaggio. As with many things tourism-wise, Argentina is new to the boutique hotel, so you won’t find many around the country outside B.A. However, they are catching on fast, like with this little treasure of a place, even though its motto is the odd “Italian spirit devoted to you.” I assume they mean the modern Italian chic vibe they’re going for with the design. Still, it’s an odd thing to say.

The Villaggio is located right around the corner from the Park Hyatt and the Plaza Independencia, the gargantuan central square of the city, but it stands out from its dreary neighbors with a sleek design constructed of dark slate-like stone and tinted windows.

Inside you will find a small but inviting lobby with exposed stone walls and local artists’ works on display, not to mention various little sitting areas and a small café where the buffet breakfast is served.

The 26 guest rooms feature neutral-toned Italian furnishings, flat screen TVs, minibars, WiFi, and individual heat and A/C units, which you’ll be thankful for since the city is essentially a desert and the temperatures fluctuate between the extremes no matter what the season. Like the hardwood-floored rooms themselves, the bathrooms are spacious and all marble.

As with most South American hotels, you get a buffet breakfast with your room rate and I hear you even get a bottle of Malbec as a welcome gift upon check in. There are also little lounges to enjoy a drink, a mini business center and meeting room, and even a little “spa” on the top (fifth) floor with a swimming pool, gym, solarium and sauna. You can also get a massage there. If you do drive into Mendoza, the hotel has a secure parking lot, which is a godsend in the sometimes dodgy city where parking can be impossible to find, let alone navigate with all the irrigation ditches that line the roadways.

Okay, fine, I’ll let you in on a little secret. I lied. The Villaggio is not the only decent boutique hotel in Mendoza. There is another nearby called Bohemia Hotel Boutique, and it is lovely too, and even a little cheaper than the Villaggio, but it lacks a few of the amenities, is not quite as central, and there are only eight rooms, so it can be hard to get in. If the Villaggio is not your style or budget, though, I would definitely recommend trying Bohemia as an alternative.

Wherever you stay, I can guarantee that a trip to Mendoza is one that you will remember for a lifetime.

[Photo of Villagio room: MarceloDiver2003; All others by Eric Rosen]