HotelChatter

The staff does their best to make sure you forget all sense of time and responsibility. Sure, they're helped along by the fact that you're isolated (there is one computer with Internet access at the resort, but why do you want to torture yourself?), but from the moment you arrive at the resort, they cater to your every need. In fact, the only complaint about the service could be that it's maybe too eager to please.

Cala Mia is a small resort - the maximum capacity is about 25 people - which, along with the family-style dinners, creates an atmosphere of intimacy between fellow guests and the staff. Each of the staff members juggle multiple responsibilities; our masseur (skip the mani-pedi but don't miss the sea salt exfoliation and massage) was also our server.

The intimacy is helped along by the fact that once you get there, you have only one option for anything you want to do. You'll eat every meal in the main bungalow; there are multiple options for breakfast and lunch, and a meat or fish - expect a lot of sea bass - dish at dinner. The Asian-inspired meals are a real treat, but skip the wine and opt for beer or a mixed drink instead.

There are plenty of excursions which the staff will set up for you. The island hike and snorkeling/fishing trip are recommended, and we met others who enjoyed scuba or horseback riding. If you opt to stay at Cala Mia, you can hang out at the two beaches surrounding the resort, and kayak, swim, or enjoy the pool or your private terrace.

Bring plenty of reading material; there's no nightlife, but you can choose from the resort's movie collection for evening entertaining.

Paradise does come at a price, but in this case it's the price of getting to the resort. It will take you a while to get there; from David, you've got a 1.5 hour drive, half of which is on a dirt road, followed by a 30-minute boat ride.

As with most tropical resorts, there are bugs; there's no air conditioning to chase them away, but the bungalows do have fans and, especially on the exposed side of the resort, get a nice breeze. In exchange for the bugs, you'll find plenty of birds, howler monkeys, sea turtles and maybe even the occasional dolphin.

If you have a bad attitude about good things, you'll find it possible to have a less than stellar experience at Cala Mia. But take pleasure in the fact that for the time being, it's a remote, isolated island, and it's hard to get modern conveniences to this location.

Then, look a couple of years into the future, when Cala Mia and the entire Chiriqui Gulf is likely to be overrun with tourism, and sit back with your tropical drink and embrace the place for what it is. Room rates start at $180 in the high season.