HotelChatter

Inside a renovated publishing house built in 1929, the hotel does that oh-so-popular blend of old and new. Thing is, the Moreno actually pulls it off. From the ground floor lobby with its old fashioned gated elevators and porter-slash-security man to the roof deck and solarium, you'll notice ornate flourishes from BA's most elegant days all over the place--but never once wonder how many decades its been since housekeeping last came through, as can sometimes be the case in everything-old-is-new properties. The Moreno channels Buenos Aires itself, a place stacked with flash and good looks--but with enough going on inside that you don't want to leave.

Check In: Reception is on the first floor, which is what people in the US would call the second. A quick elevator ride up is easy even with luggage: These cars are bigger than the average porteño elevator. After the standard paperwork and credit card swiping, a porter came to haul our stuff up to our room on the fourth (we'd say fifth) floor.

The Room: We drew what the hotel calls an "extra extra large king"; that second extra is, as it turns out, much deserved. A tour guide for the suite would've been a welcome addition. To the left, was the bathroom; to the right, a sitting area also had an armoire, a dresser, a wet bar and a safe. Beyond that was the bedroom, part of the same space but separated from the rest of the room by a dramatic drape.

While it was advertised as a king, we suspect the bed was two twins mashed together. It wasn't awkward or uncomfortable, but we noticed the difference. Also in the sleeping area was a small flat-panel TV and a lovely desk with a decent view of the city. The ceilings and windows are super tall.

Interestingly, our room had a European-style keycard system to operate the lights. Buenos Aires is hardly the world's greenest city; the power-saving measure probably has more to do with utility bills than saving the planet, though eco-obsessives can still appreciate the effort.

The Bathroom: This being Argentina, the bidet was just as big as the toilet, but the real star was the shower. It wasn't quite what we'd call a rain showerhead, but the pressure was terrific. The floor made of wooden slats was totally cool, too. The products--shampoo, conditioner, bar soap and lotion--weren't brand name that we could tell, though they were nice.

The Roof Deck: On the seventh floor, a big deck gives 270 degree views of downtown and Puerto Madero, the river-side neighborhood that's been redeveloped into one of the city's most expensive. Early in the evening on Friday, there wasn't anything happening on the deck, but there is a big grill and some chairs, suggesting you could make something happen with the right planning.

In the morning, breakfast, which is included with the room, is served in the solarium that opens onto the roof deck. Also on the seventh floor is a small but adequate gym, with a couple treadmills, a couple bikes and a weight machine.

The WiFi: Wireless is free at the Moreno, though we had trouble logging on with our MacBook. Meanwhile, our other computer, a Linux netbook, had no trouble staying connected at typical broadband speed.

Tags: Hotel Video Tours / Buenos Aires Hotels

by pbb