HotelChatter || The Thinkers' Guide to Staying in Buenos Aires: Gay Accommodation

Travel writer Matt Chesterton may know more about the Buenos Aires hotel scene than anyone else on the planet, our words not his. When he isn't hiding from his creditors he is out and about in BA. For the next two weeks he will be busting myths and spouting off about the BA hotel scene. For starters, he has told us that La Cabaña is not the best steakhouse in Argentina, and rather, a national embarrassment, the kind of place that in previous epochs of "our" history would have been firebombed--reserved for Steakhouse Suckers, his words, not ours. This is exactly the kind of unadulterated sentiment you can expect to find here in the next couple of weeks--plus he is hilarious. If you wish to use this time to ask him a burning question you have about BA hotels, shoot it our way, and we will hand deliver it to him. Enjoy.

Lugar Gay B&B Balcony

Over the last two years [Buenos Aires] has become well known for its liberal attitude to gay life so that it has become the destination of choice for gay tourists to South America. Buenos Aires now has many gay discos, bars, hotels, saunas, movie theaters, and possibly the best-looking men you will see anywhere... In February 2005 Buenos Aires was host to a conference by the International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association IGLTA. In September 2007 the International Gay & Lesbian Football Association will hold the Football (soccer) World Championship in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

From the Guide to Gay Buenos Aires.

There's a new cliche in town. Having been saddled for decades with the godawful 'Paris of South America' tag, Buenos Aires, within the space of two years or so, has jumped out of the closet and announced itself as the 'Gay Capital of Latin America'.

There's a lot of truth behind the hype. BA's gay scene has been steadily growing since the return of democracy in 1983 (gays, like everyone else who refused to stand to attention when the jackboots marched past, were persecuted during the military dictatorship) and the recent surge in tourism has made the 'pink peso' stronger than ever. The laissez-faire attitude of the locals towards sexual preference helps, and can be summed up in two words: 'Who cares?'. This is still a macho culture, however, which means gay men and trannies are far more visible than lesbians.

We're supposed to be talking about hotels. Let's begin with a plea to the travel press: stop using the term 'gay-friendly'. If a hotel doesn't accept bookings from gay couples, it's worth mentioning - and condemning. Otherwise let's simply assume that, like all good capitalists, hoteliers are more interested in your custom than your customs. Every hotel we have mentioned thus far in this series is 'gay-friendly', that is to say, happy to take your money regardless of who you are and what you get up to under the sheets.

That said, some BA lodgings are specifically geared towards gay guests. They tend to be B&B&Bs (Bed & Breakfast & Buggery) rather than hotels proper. Gay readers wondering how a straight writer like ourselves can possible know the first thing about these establishments can rest assured we have canvassed the opinion of a number of gay chums prior to writing these reviews. Like most wet modern liberals we also fancy ourselves as having a straight eye for the queer guy, but this is probably pure self-delusion.

Here are our top picks for gay accommodation in BA:

Lugar Gay
This was the first gay B&B in the city and is located in 'historic' (every travel hack's favorite, and most meaningless, adjective) San Telmo, which is rapidly acquiring a reputation as BA's queerest barrio. The excellent website (no crappy Flash for once) informs us that 'there are no restrictions as to public displays of affection between men, or the use of undergarments as only attire, other than respect for the other guests.' The gallery page suggests that even the use of 'undergarments' is considered prudish. Facilities include basic but clean rooms, a secluded terrace, a big jacuzzi, a video room with extensive porn collection, and a number of g-stringed mannequins. We particularly like their sightseeing recommendations: 'Nearby you can visit the Danish Lutheran Church and the Russian Orthodox churches.' A recent social policy statement from the Russian Orthodox church states: 'Homosexuality is to be treated by sacraments, prayer, fasting, repentance and the reading of the Holy Scripture.' We'll get back to you about the Lutherans.

Bayres B&B
A slightly more restrained, less overtly hedonistic atmosphere prevails here. There are six rooms, several communal areas, and a tolerant attitude towards those who choose to walk around in their overgarments. What we like about this place are its tasteful art deco touches (inside and out, everything perfectly restored) and its proximity to Palermo Viejo, BA's hippest area as you're doubtless sick of hearing. The rates are similar to Lugar, around $50 dollars for a double - a bargain in this overpriced neighborhood.

Gay House BA
No frills, no thrills: Gay House is a very reasonably priced (US$30 for a double) downtown gay lodging. And that's pretty much all there is to say, except that downtown is not the place to be in BA unless you get a kick out of watching traffic accidents and political demos.

End of the World Gay Hostel
Ho hum. This is brand new, we haven't visited it, it might be fantastic. But we have some qualms. First, the location. They're not lying about the 'end of the world'. The hostel is in the south of the city, in the kind of area where you could get the shit kicked out of you not for being gay, but just for being there. Secondly, the hype. Despite several polite requests and then several more forthright requests to be removed from their mailing list, we were spammed by these guys for months with frothy teasers about their 'mega opening party' which was going to attract 'top celebrities'. In the end they got Daisy May Queen, a local daytime radio DJ who changed her name in homage to Freddie Mercury and the boys. Thirdly, End of the World is a hostel chain, and the gay addition may simply be a leap on the bandwagon. Or it may not. We'll get back to you on this one.

Casa Bloody Mary Rooms

Two recommended guesthouses which are not specifically gay oriented but which have openly gay owners are: Casa Bloody Mary and The Cocker.

If you trust the hype, we have seen the future of gay accommodation in Buenos Aires and its name is the Axel Hotel. The Axel will either instantly eclipse all the lodgings we've listed above or else be an expensive pink elephant. Our guess is that it will be a hit but won't make its scheduled July 2007 opening.

[Photo: prestongrant]

Hotel Reviews:
Lugar Gay Bed And Breakfast
Bayres Bed & Breakfast
Gay House B.A.
Casa Bloody Mary

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