Where to stay when you leave.

The Thinkers' Guide to Staying in Buenos Aires: Boutique Hotel, Part II

2/16/2007 at 3:33 PM
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Travel writer Matt Chesterton may know more about the Buenos Aires hotel scene than anyone else on the planet, our words not his. When he isn't hiding from his creditors he is out and about in BA. For the next two weeks he will be busting myths and spouting off about the BA hotel scene. For starters, he has told us that La Cabaña is not the best steakhouse in Argentina, and rather, a national embarrassment, the kind of place that in previous epochs of "our" history would have been firebombed--reserved for Steakhouse Suckers, his words, not ours. This is exactly the kind of unadulterated sentiment you can expect to find here in the next couple of weeks--plus he is hilarious. If you wish to use this time to ask him a burning question you have about BA hotels, shoot it our way, and we will hand deliver it to him. Enjoy.

Home Hotel, Buenos Aires

Located in Buenos Aires's hip Palermo Viejo neighbourhood, Home was designed by architects Rodrigo Cunill and Juana Grichener. The exterior may be austere, but the rest of the hotel is warm, light and airy thanks to a 300 sq m garden and heated swimming pool. All 17 rooms have their own distinct style with a retro theme, mixing vintage European wallpapers, Chilean wool rugs and custom-made native watambu wood beds with CD and book libraries, MP3 players and Wi-Fi.

Best New Hotel :: Wallpaper* magazine design awards , 2007.

Wow! Blood-tingling stuff. Wallpaper* has named BA's Home Hotel as best new hotel in the world. People everywhere are starting to notice this strange continent dangling off the ass of Mexico.

We're not sure if Home is the best new hotel in the world. Unlike the elite panel of international experts - including actress Jane Birkin - who judged the Wallpaper* awards, we haven't visited every new hotel in the world. But there's no doubt that Home is one of the best lodgings in BA, and that every gong slung at owners Tom and Patricia (he's English, she's Argentine) is richly deserved. They put three years of their lives into getting this place open, didn't cut any corners, demanded the best of everything, got lost several times in the jungle of Argentine bureaucracy, eventually hacked themselves out, and are now reaping the rewards and awards.

What else can we tell you about Home? The bar serves some of the best cocktails in town. The garden is Scandinavian cool under a South American climate. The room decor is playful and reflects the tastes of the owners: no playing it safe here (no boutique worth its salt tries to please all the people all of the time). U2 had after-gig drinks here (St Bono gets pretty frisky after a few Martinis). So did Franz Ferdinand. The Bush twins stayed here and behaved impeccably. Their entourage stayed here and behaved horribly. They seemed to be under the impression they'd landed in the BA chapter of their sorority. The pillows are still recovering. On Friday nights in summer, owner Tom (a former record producer) and guest DJs play retro party music in the garden. Drop in for this even if you can't get a room.

Home is our top pick too. The problem? You'll need to come in the bleak midwinter or else book six months ahead. The solution? Go somewhere else. It's not the only great boutique/guesthouse in town. Below are some thumbnails of our other faves, in no particular order.

1555 Malabia House
The genuises at Time Out Buenos Aires reviewed this in their 1999 first edition, listed below Howard Johnson and above Holiday Inn Select. Owner Maria is a visionary who saw the potential of Palermo Viejo several years ahead of her competitors. She's also a wonderful hostess with an eye for detail. Natural lights streams in from everywhere, colours are earthy, simple and soothing, the three mini-gardens bring a bit of Tuscany into town. All rooms have queen-sized beds and a/c. Guests are welcomed as if they were long lost siblings.

Bo Bo Hotel
Another award hamster (Condé Nast Traveller 'Hot List', etc), Bo Bo has been going strong for two years and looks like a stayer. The name, which stands for 'bohemian bourgeois', is meaningless and pretentious and therefore ideal. There are only seven rooms, each with a distinct design strategy linked to a modernist art movement - Pop, Art Deco, Rationalist and, er, Techno. What this means in practise is different colored pillow cases and less stuff in the Minimalist room. But they all look good, the 'Argentinian' suite has a big jacuzzi, the staff are beautiful and professional, and the breakfast is one of the best in town. Perfect location in the heart of Palermo Viejo. Try to book at least a decade in advance.

Five (Cool Rooms Buenos Aires)
Boilerplate boutique in some respects - pine flooring, chairs that look better than they feel, groovy gravel, enough bamboo to feed all the pandas in captivity. But it's got more than twice as many rooms as Bo Bo (17, not 5), an even better location, and, again, well-trained staff. If you've got a couple of hours to spare, take a look at the website.

Costa Petit Hotel
Only four suites, all stunning, with valuable antique gimcracks in every corner. But at 300 bucks a night for the best suite, you're kind of expecting to find the Hope Diamond stitched to your dressing gown. What you do get is a king size bed, Egyptian linen and a plasma TV. The website also claims that guests have access to a 'menu of pillows'. Not cheap, but you can't help but be seduced by the amount of blood, sweat and handcrafted cupboards that owners Diego and Eugenia have put into this place. We're still in Palermo Viejo.

Krista Hotel Boutique
And we're still in Palermo Viejo. Krista hovers in the gray area between cookie-cutter boutique and beautifully designed B&B. Rooms are nothing special but competitively priced - $100 for a standard with a 20% discount for cash payments out of season. Staff are friendly, verging on puppyish.

Soho All Suites
This part of Palermo Viejo is sometimes known as Palermo Soho, hence the name. Probably the best located of all BA lodgings for those who like to be in the thick of the action. Nothing hip about this place, it's a boutique for people who think boutiques are pretentious. As for the decor, Soho All White would have been a more apt name. To repeat: great location.

248 Finisterra
Describing itself as a 'Hotel Boutique Argentino', Finisterra then proceeds to sell itself short. The website says:

All of the spaces in the hotel are designed for your enjoyment. Inside, there is a sitting room with a fireplace to savor a glass of wine and a good book.

The same could have been said about Ben Cartwright's log cabin. But Finisterra is actually a fine looking place, even if everything has been ordered from Boutique Fittings Ltd. The main draw is the location, in Las Cañitas, yet another Palermo sub-barrio. Depending on your point of view this is either the hippest or the most soulless barrio in the city. We veer towards the latter, though it should be noted we are writing this article in socks and sandals and the dial has hit 35 degrees.

La Cayetana Historic House
Finally we're out of Palermo and back downtown. They're not shitting you with the name - the house dates back to the 1820s. Here's a boutique where the designers (Estela Fitere and Silvina Tarrio) have devoted more than 10 minutes and a few phone calls to their scheme. A perfect blend of restored original features (the mosaic floors, the high bare-brick ceilings, the free-standing tubs) and modern conveniences (Wi-Fi, etc). Another brownie point: they quote their rates with tax (a ridiculous 21%) and transfer included. At $100 for a Standard suite this is one of the few design hotel bargains in BA.

The Cocker
We've saved our personal favorite till last. Located in San Telmo, the Cocker (British owners Ian and Aidan have a pet spaniel named Rocco) is more gorgeous guesthouse than beautiful boutique but its design touches put most of its overhyped competitors to shame. Each of the five suites is unique and packed with character, using lush sweeping fabrics, restored antique furnishings and modernist twists to create a twilit, romantic ambience. But with only five rooms it must be expensive, right? Wrong. The best suite goes for $85 including tax and breakfast. Two other points. First, Ian and Aidan are possibly the nicest hotel owners in the world. They don't seem to understand that every so often you have to treat a guest like shit just to let off steam. Second, they import their breakfast tea from England. You won't appreciate the magnitude of this until you've tasted local tea.

This is by no means an exhaustive, or even a comprehensive, list. If you'd like our opinion on a place we've left out, please leave a comment and we'll get onto it.

6 Comments - Add Yours by MattyC

Comments


Alan Patrick
HotelChatter Member
Re: The Thinkers' Guide to Staying in Buenos Aires (none / 0)

Hey Matt,

Great roundup. I'm hooked on your series, mainly due to your writing style. HotelChatter.. this one's a keeper!

Did you get to stay in all of those places for free? (Can I have your job please?) Seriously though.. this is something I've never understood about hotel reviews... are they done in a 'mystery shopper' way, where you just pay and turn up like a normal customer, without them knowing you are a travel writer? This seems to me the only way to fairly review a hotel, as otherwise they will know you are coming and make sure everything is as perfect as possible, when at other times this might be far from the truth... especially in the area of service.

Not a jibe in any way I promise... I'm just interested in the way these things are done.

Keep up great work with this series!

Alan

by Alan Patrick on 2/16/2007 at 4:54 PM



MattyC
HotelChatter Contributing Editor
Hotel reviewing (none / 0)

Thanks, Alan, these are great questions and deserve a considered reponse.

First, I should say that I am part of the problem, and by attacking certain aspects of travel writing I am by no means excluding myself. The fact is, Buenos Aires is now my home and has been for many years. So it's easy for me to spot the copious bullshit that passes for 'informed' BA travel advice. It's no accident that the writers whose work on BA I admire either live here (Ian Mount for example) or used to live here (Chris Moss).

When I write about another city I generally fall into the same bad practices I've been lampooning in this series. I'm doing some stuff on Rio at the moment. I'm concientious, I'm trying my best with it, but it's still a piece of shit. Why? Because I don't really understand the city. But if I say to my editor, Look, I don't think I'm the right guy for this job, I don't really undestand the city, he or she will laugh at me. We weren't expecting you to understand the city, they'll say. Just give us 2,000 words. If you get stuck, read a guidebook.

As for hotel reviews, where can I start? The places I've written about in this series I've either stayed in, toured, or canvassed widely for objective opinion about. The majority of the hotels I've stayed in have comped me. Others I've visited anonymously. Oddly, the ones in which I've been comped haven't treated me any better than the ones I've in which I've posed as a disinterested guest. This is probably because they know I'm writing for a print publisher rather than for a site like this one. Magazines and travel supplements shy away from negative, i.e honest, hotel reviews. Partly they don't want to fall out with the hotel chains who provide a big whack of their ad revenue. Partly they think that readers only want sunny stuff.

So let's say I review a hotel and send in a review which mentions the following: soiled sheets, no hot water at peak time, smell of damp, asbestos dust in the lobby, prowling rapist, excellent breakfast. The editor will write back and say, Thanks matt, great review. Then when I read what they've printed I'll find they've eliminated everything except the bit about breakfast. I know, because I've done the same thing to my writers, especially if the hotel is an important client.

If I want to get the bad news out there I have to go to Wolf Blitzer or Anderson Cooper. "Now we're going over to our special correspondent in Buenos Aires, Matt Chesterton. Any news on the prowling rapist in the Faena Hotel, Matt?"

"It's all quiet at the moment, Wolf, but what I can tell you is that these Eggs Benedict rock!"

The only way to get a fair impression of the quality of a hotel is to use a site like this one and read as many comments as possible. One review is never enough even if it is disinterested; every hotel has the occasional bad day.

Trust me, if a hotel knows I am coming they don't make sure everything is as perfect as possible because they know I'm just a hack. And if they've comped me they're pretty sure they're going to get a glowing review. If Robbie Williams is coming, on the other hand, they swing into action and start polishing the balustrades. (Perhaps so he can slide down them after he's had a few.)

To sum up, sites like this are the future, I'm really sold on this site, but at the moment they're helping rather than hindering the hard print publications. Why? Because they can pay their hacks less knowing that they can get most of the information they need to write a review off the net. They don't have to travel to the city. They don't have to stay in a hotel. After a while you learn to spot reviews like this. There are many.

Hope that helps and sorry for being so longwinded!

Matt

by MattyC on 2/17/2007 at 7:26 AM



Alan Patrick
HotelChatter Member
Re: Thanks... (none / 0)

Thanks for the long, interesting and actually informative reply Matt... not every day you see that from an online writer :) I wonder if some hotels advertise with travel guide books because they are afraid of bad reviews if they don't do so?! Have you ever heard of anything like that happening, or is it always positive reviews in the guides? Apparently Chris Martin, Gywn Paltrow, Apple and errr... Orange (?) are in BA at the moment... I wonder whose balustrades they are sliding down...

by Alan Patrick on 2/19/2007 at 5:23 PM



MattyC
HotelChatter Contributing Editor
Re: Thanks... (none / 0)

I guess they're at the Faena because the press conference is there on Thursday. Chris Martin is more likely to ask if the oak from the balustrade has been sourced from a renewable forest than to slide down it.

You don't even have to advertise in a travel guide to get a good review. You just have to make friends with the writer/editor. Because it's the fag-end of the journalistic profession, poorly paid and low status, people who write for or edit travel guides tend to be insecure melancholic loners like myself. One friendly phone call from a hotel owner telling you how much he loves your work tends to do the trick.

by MattyC on 2/20/2007 at 11:36 AM

[ Parent ]



Sarita
HotelChatter Member
Costa Petit (none / 0)

Hi,

I've just returned from a very enjoyable trip to Argentina which involved riding in Cordoba and a bit of indulgence at Costa Petit.  I agree it was expensive - I booked the luxury suite (a contradiction in terms because all the rooms, by the way 5 not 4 as mentioned in your review, were fabulous) but frankly, I preferred the cheaper 'junior' suite I stayed in the night before which was $250US as it was quieter with a more spacious bathroom.  In fact, other than practise a few tango moves, I'm not sure what you could constructively do with the extra room space & private deck that came with the luxury suite - as the deck was in shade from about 3pm onwards.

I also had a night in Casa La Canitas (Huergo 283) which I can recommend for reasonable cost ($100US, ex tax) & great service.  Not the best location - it's almost in Belgrano, but great value.

By the way, I think your site is great, the reviews were really helpful in planning my stay.

Regards,
Sarah

by Sarita on 3/19/2007 at 3:04 PM



palermojim
HotelChatter Member
I'm building a boutique hotel in palermo (none / 0)

right around the corner from the BoBo, so I guess I better get to know you Matt? Contact me and I'll buy you a drink or 2. In my relatively short time here I've learned that bribery is good.

And Sarita, I'd be more than happy to share my experiences, as a foreignor (Canadian) building a small hotel from scratch here, with no prior experience.

by palermojim on 5/20/2007 at 4:46 PM


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