HotelChatter

The Banys Orientals is more style and sophistication than luxury. The exterior is 18th century, a stony contrast to the minimalist black tiled and chrome interior. Your room doesn't have any fluff or frills - just a clean, comfortable bed, a small television, a desk and chair and soft, glowing lights. Not much more.

It doesn't sound like much, but it feels great. There's a calming atmosphere as soon as you enter. Partly because the staff, all young, attractive and enthusiastic, make you feel that way. And it smells fresh and nice. No snobbery and no pretensions. Unpretentious prices - get a  double room for $98 ($140), or hire their newly-opened suite across the road for just €129 ($190).

No snobbery in the street outside, either. The Banys Orientals is on a small but superbly fun street leading up from the harbour to the Old Town and Gothic district. It's packed with individual shops and jewellery stands, and tiny, little tapas bars that used to be smoky dens with carpets of fag-butts until the Spanish smoking ban came in.

Opened only in May 2002, it quickly crept into Conde Nast's Top 50 hotels in the world the year after, and into their Top 10 in the Med in 2004.

Stay there and you'll see why. If only it actually had some oriental baths....

[Photo: Boccina]