The ladies at reception let us pick out our room - we had a choice of the first or fourth floor suites. When we opened the doors to the terrace in the fourth floor room, someone should have been standing by to queue up "The Sound of Music." The suite literally seemed to hang over Lac Leman - the pink sun was setting distantly in a clear sky. A steamboat's hoot echoed across the lake, and off in the distance we could see the snowcaps of the pre-Alps.
Below us were festive yellow umbrellas dotting the hotel's veranda, where guests and power brokers relaxed with chartreuse-colored drinks and cigarettes. Fuschia-hued flowers draped over every terrace railing. It was mild, and the promenade along the lake was pleasantly abuzz with bicyclists, bladers, and strollers. Our jaws gaped open. We took off our sweaters. My husband kept humming the opening chords to "Smoke on the Water:" "We all came out to Montreux on the Lake Geneva shoreline." Deep Purple were way ahead of their time. This was paradise.
The room had delicious wood floors - no rugs to cover up that kind of beautiful work. The room was sumptuously sized, with a deep wing-backed easy chair in the corner. We sacrificed a low room with a real double bed for the terrace views and two conjoined twin beds - but the mattresses were comfortable, the duvets perfect. The pillows were bit mushy and thin but room service quickly came and brought us two more. The bathroom sparkled and the shower was a pleasure.
In the mornings we had breakfast in the hotel's restaurant, made to look like the inside of a train, decorated with fabulous vintage travel posters from Switzerland. The spread was lavish - coffee, juice, yogurt, cheeses, cold cuts, fruit, confiture. We ate hearty breakfasts before departing for long walks and a half-day trip up the mountainside to Rocher-de-Naye (over 6000 feet). The hotel also gave us a Riviera Card which gave us discounts on the trolley and admission to Chateau Chillon, a 45-minute walk away.
The final bill was reasonable for sweet accomodations and even sweeter location. Four stars and utterly recommended.
Image via North Face/Flickr
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