The Hedonism boat was about as exciting as it got at the Rockhouse, where privacy, quiet, and downtime are the specialty. There are no tvs or radios, but plenty of books, magazines, and a perfect chess board. We were unable to get upgraded to a villa while we were there, but no matter -- our room was perfect.

The four-poster bed had a mosquito net; quite simple, and simply romantic. Window slats eliminated complicated shades. They reminded me of camp, and it magically fit into the wood-and-thatch theme.

All the rooms, including ours, came with outdoor showers. The walls were high enough to allow for privacy but still open enough so we could watch clouds pass overhead while adjusting for hot and cold. It was ample enough for my husband and me to sample the luxurious bar of complementary patchouli-scented soap.

Our patio had an overhang to block out the setting sun while we changed into fresh clothes for the evening. Everywhere there were hooks for towels and bathing suits. We alternated between fan and air conditioning. Most of all, we never heard a soul.

At the Rockhouse, I learned to tell time again, but without a clock. The days were measured by how hungry I was, when the fishing boats went out and returned, and when the catamarans arrived in the cove so normally bathing suit-clad revelers could leap insanely off the cliffs. There were moments when we grew quiet and listened to a superb evening soundtrack: breeze, ocean, and gentle thump-a-thump of reggae music. No one ever seemed to be around. Other than the restaurant, we always had the crazy idea we had the place to ourselves.

Dotted with tiki lamps and romantic candles, the restaurant was rated four-star; every evening was jammed to the gills.

The paths from the villas to the restaurant were undulating, as were the rock bases curled around the supports of the yoga hut, as were the rock waves built alongside the bar, and the circular platforms that led to stairs that led to ladders into the sea. Even on our last day, we were discovering new views and paths down to the water.

By the aptly named infinity pool, the vista flattened and opened up, mimicking the flat openness of the sea stretching to the horizon. From here you could practically see the curvature of the earth. That sprawling, swirling, curvy, spacious feeling that is the most delicious attribute of this hotel; it's as sweet, minimal, and elemental as the sun, sky, and blue water.

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· Rockhouse Hotel reviews [TripAdvisor]